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On June 17, 1920, a flyer titled Taglio della Tuta (Pattern of the Tuta) was included with the Florentine daily newspaper La Nazione. It featured a front view of a trouser suit along with an arrangement of individual pattern pieces for the garment. The pattern and accompanying text were by the artist and designer Thayaht.

The design is functionally minimalist and strictly symmetrical, resembling a pair of overalls or a uniform. Thayaht described the Tuta as representing freedom of movement and elegance while also aiming to obscure differences between social classes. Making a Tuta is simple and requires few materials. By publishing it in a newspaper, Thayaht wanted to reach as many people as possible and encourage them to make the design themselves.

In a letter dated June 25, 1920, Thayaht envisioned Florence full of men, women, and children all wearing the Tuta. Yet, photographs mostly depict Thayaht himself donning the outfit, striking a confident pose. In one notable image, he stands with arms stretched and legs together, merging body and garment into the shape of the letter T, symbolizing both Tuta and Thayaht. At just 26, he not only designed a new type of garment but also reinvented himself as an artistic figure.

About a decade later, Thayaht joined a confederation of fascist artists and became part of the Italian Futurist movement. In 1932, he again called for a radical transformation of predominantly heavy and colorless menswear in a manifesto, once more referencing the Tuta.

Text: David Wittinghofer, Curatorial Assistant