Indposhiv
Vyshyvanka
Europe, Ukraine
2024
Cotton; embroidered
Purchased by the museum from Indposhiv in November 2024
These intricately embroidered blouses, known as Vyshyvanka in Ukraine, are traditionally created by women and are deeply rooted in Ukrainian culture. Since the 19th century, they have held significant importance as symbols of Ukrainian nationalism and patriotism. The diverse patterns of the Vyshyvanka are believed to provide protection, warding off evil spirits and preventing them from entering the body. Embroidery motifs vary by region and can convey personal information about the wearer, such as their marital status.
Since Russia’s invasion, modern designers have symbolically incorporated elements of Ukraine’s defense into Vyshyvanka patterns. Belarusian artist Rufina Bazlova designed a version in military colors featuring motifs of drones and missiles – vital elements of Ukraine’s military strategy and the nation's hope. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky wore this design during a speech.
The evolution of embroidery patterns demonstrates how the concept of protection adapts to political changes. Symbols evolve to reflect new contexts and find expression through clothing. There are different attitudes among Ukrainians towards designs with military motifs such as weapons, as their symbolism can polarize and evoke differing perspectives on nationalism, war, and defense.
Ricarda Rivoir