This gala dress tells you all you need to know about the ingenuity of the French silk weavers. Graceful large and small floral rosettes on a blue and silver ground are flanked by a striking serrated border. When the fabric was cut, that border was cleverly used to emphasise the front panels, the cuffs, the pocket flaps and the slits. Just look at how subtly the button-holes have been matched to the pattern!
On the left-hand side of the coat, the skilfully embroidered star of the Royal Polish Order of the White Eagle has been appliquéd. If you look closely at the cross, you’ll see the Latin cypher of the order’s founder and grand master – August the Strong: PRO FIDE, LEGE ET GREGE. For faith, law and the people. All the other knights of the order had a slightly different cypher within the cross: PRO FIDE, LEGE ET REGE. For faith, law and the king.
When August the Strong founded the Royal Polish Order of the White Eagle in 1705, he orchestrated the act as the renewal of an existing Polish order of chivalry -- one originally established in 1325. At this stage of the Great Northern War, a politically charged phase for him, he was attempting to solicit the good will of the Polish-Lithuanian nobility and strengthen its solidarity with Saxony’s ruling class. Russian allies in the Great Northern War were also awarded the honour. Members wore the badge of the order, with the white eagle of Poland, on a blue ribbon. You’ll be able to see examples in the portraits in subsequent rooms.
The blue-and-silver dress is one of ten garments from the Royal Wardrobe that August the Strong personally selected as worthy of preservation. We don’t know the occasion for which it was created, but August the Strong probably wore it at one of the annual celebrations for the Order of the White Eagle.
Further Media
- Location & Dating
- Saxony. C. 1705-1720.
- Material & Technique
- Light blue and blight grey silk, brocaded; Silver woven thread; Wood buttons, silver woven thread, silver wire; Star relief embroidery, gold and silver woven thread, silver lamella.
- Dimenions
- Chest circumference 109 cm Waist circumference 93.6 cm Hem circumference 516 cm Back width 36 cm Shoulder width 15 cm CF Front length (without collar) 103.5 cm CF Total front length (without collar) 103.5 cm Front length (shoulder hem) 110.5 cm CB Back length (without collar) 100.5 cm CB Slit length 47.5 cm Pleat length/ slit length back right/left 48 cm CB Total back length (without collar) 100, 5 cm Armhole circumference (front/back) 50.9 cm Neck circumference collar 44 cm Outer collar width 37.6 cm CB Collar height 0.8 cm Sleeve hem circumference 30 cm Total sleeve length 56.5 cm Sleeve slit length 11 cm Sleeve cuff circumference 40 cm Sleeve cuff width 16.8 cm Pocket opening length 15.6 cm Pocket flap length 22 cm Pocket flap width 15 cm Weight 2.439 kg
- Museum
- Rüstkammer
- Inventory number
- i. 0026.01