This golden ceremonial costume was intended for the one event in the life of August the Strong that surpassed all others: his coronation as King of Poland in Cracow on the 15th of September 1697. That evening, the 27-year old sovereign appeared at the festive banquet clad all in gold – wearing this dress of shimmering cloth-of-gold with silver embroidery and stockings knitted from gold yarn. Additional silver embroidery adorns the wide cuffs and the silk waistcoat in a shade of poppy red known as "ponceau" after the French. Diamond buttons enhanced the splendour of the ensemble.
The cut of the costume and the embroidery patterns followed the latest fashions at the French court. Under Louis the Fourteenth, it was the foremost trend-setter in matters of court etiquette, style and sartorial luxury. The French king’s absolutist rule allowed him to display unheard-of personal power and splendour, and many European rulers found themselves fascinated by that. On his Grand Tour from 1686 to 1688, August the Strong spent a total of ten months at the Sun King’s magnificent court and retained a life-long admiration for Louis.
It was the French king Louis the Fourteenth who had established the "justaucorps", a fitted, knee-length coat, as formal court dress. It was worn with a long-sleeved waistcoat, also knee-length, and close-fitting breeches. Both coat and waistcoat were only ever partially buttoned up.
Gold and silver embroidery, lace and passementerie buttons add to the sumptuous appearance. Imagine a matching plumed hat, a wig, gloves, a loosely tied cravat, lace cuffs at the wrists, plus shoes with buckles and red high heels.
This golden ceremonial costume is one of ten selected items of dress from the Royal Wardrobe to be preserved on the orders of August the Strong himself. These garments are associated with the most significant political and dynastic events in the king’s life. The golden banqueting dress is the earliest of them.
Further Media
- Location & Dating
- French outer fabric. Tailoring by royal tailor shop. Dresden. 1697.
- Material & Technique
- Golden outer fabric ("glacé drap d´or"): Lampas made of light silk and gold weave (gilded silver wire with silk core); Silver embroidery, main lining and waistcoat: "Gros de Tours", poppy-red silk ("ponceau").
- Dimenions
- Chest circumference 110 cm Waist circumference 86.6 cm Hem circumference 417 cm Back width 33 cm Front width 38.6 cm Shoulder width 14.3 cm CF Front length (without collar) 104.8 cm CF Total front length (without collar) 104.8 cm Front length (shoulder hem) 112.2 cm CB Back length (without collar) 108.2 cm CB Slit length 52 cm Pleat length/ slit length back right/left 50.3 cm Opening back right/left 25, 8 cm CB Total back length (without collar) 108.2 cm Armhole circumference (front/back) 54 cm Neck circumference collar 43.6 cm Outer collar width 42 cm CF Collar height 0.5 cm CB Collar height 0.5 cm, sleeve hem circumference 62 cm, total sleeve length 66 cm, sleeve cuff circumference 81 cm, sleeve cuff width 26 cm, pocket opening length 21.5 cm, pocket flap length 26.3 cm, pocket flap width 9 cm
- Museum
- Rüstkammer
- Inventory number
- i. 0025.01